Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Last Day in Yokohama


Here is the group photo on my last day in Japan. My going away gift was a man's yukata and geta - traditional Japanese daily wear and wooden shoes. I haven't tried the yukatta on yet but it is very pretty. I was assured the shoes were large, but my feet are XL by Japanese standards.

I am in Doha now and all is fine. The weather is plenty warm and the sun is out. I'll start writing about that (I miss Japan but will try not and make that the topic of my postings).

Saturday, April 22, 2006

Hashioki

I have a few strange quirks. Most are harmless like this one of collecting hashioki (chopstick rests) but only those that are in the shape of a fish and where there is both a "boy" and "girl" fish. I display them on a piece of cloth showing a scene from an Edo era screen with koi on it. Most are ceramic.

Anyway, I am up to 12 pairs of hashioki now. Starting in the upper left hand top row they are: tai (sea bream), kingyo (goldfish), some little critters I forgot that look like gobies, koi no bori (carp streamer shape); left middle row: another pair of koi no bori made from glass, kingyo, some Vietnamese haishioki made from horn, tai, fugu (poisonous blow fish); bottom row: kingyo, tai, hirame (flounder).

In Japan, pink is for girls and blue is for boys. You might also see other pairs like the orange and black or gold and orange in the picture. Tai are popular because they are thought to bring good fortune. They are often eaten at ceremonious meals and Yebisu is usually seen holding one. Of course this is the time of year to fly koi no bori with May 5th coming up.

The fish shaped ones are a bit hard to find in pairs. I asked about them once and was told that they are a little old fashioned and really only used on special occasions at home. Some nice restaurants have them. They are kind of fun though. If you have special china and silver I suggest you get them out and use them. They aren't doing much good in the cupboard. Have a tea party :-).

The weather is great right now! This morning was very clear and Fuji was clearly visible.

V=7116

Sunday, April 16, 2006

Guess What is for Dinner

Since I don't have much time left in Japan, I am trying new restaurants whenever I can again. I have made it into a game that goes like this: pick one at random that looks like it does not have an English menu (pictures and plastic food displays also make it too easy), then go in and try to get something to eat! I will eat about anything so that isn't a problem. The game is to try and read the menu at least a little, ask questions, and then see if you get what you thought you were ordering without letting the waiter or waitress know you are clueless. I do better than 70% at this game but there are enough errors to keep it interesting. So far, I have always been able to get enough food and not go hungry.

I am OK at asking questions. My trouble is understanding the answers. I can ask for recommendations and figure out generally whether the dish consists of rice, vegetables, fish, or meat based on what I am told most of the time. Tonight I was really doing good and then got caught right at the end when I couldn't tell her what kind of ochazuke with ume I wanted and ordered wrong. Last night I got through the whole meal without missing a beat.

Have a happy Easter!

Clown Shoes

There isn't much to write about this week. I have been working instead of engaging in people observation or learning about cultures. However, that didn't stop me from seeing this young man on the train. Look at those shoes. They were even more impressive in real life. At first I thought it was some afflicted person with feet the size of David's on a regular sized body. Then I began to think the guy was wearing clown shoes on purpose - probably for fashion.

It is hard to tell what is going on in this picture. So I have denoted the clown ratio on the photograph. For the purposes of this discussion, the clown ratio is the length of extra shoe over what is normally required to house the foot. (By the way, "kutsu" is the word for shoe in Japanese - just thought I'd throw that in to make this a little more educational). Expressed as a percentage, I estimate the clown ratio on this fellow to be around 50%. The shoe itself, up close, actually looked like the extra had been grafted onto it or somthing. Note the box toe on the left foot and also look at his feet relative to everyone elses. Almost bozoesque. OK, enough about big shoes.

All too soon I have to leave Japan and it is going to be a sad day. I have never taken so much enjoyment from observing people elsewhere although I know there is just as much opportunity. I just really like Japanese people and it is not going to be the same...

Sunday, April 09, 2006

More Pachinko


A girl with a sign showing the way to a pachinko parlor. The kanji at the top of the sign with the yellow background says "nihon" which is the Japanese word for Japan. The katakana, which indicates foreign words, below it says "gurandoinpakuto" when romanized. Can you guess what it means? See the comments for a translation.

What is this Dude About?

BROOKLYN
CITY
MANHATTAN
I AN AFFORD
A MORE STYLISH

Saturday, April 08, 2006

Bureikou

Here we are at the party after viewing the cherry blossoms. The title "Bureikou" means putting aside rank. This is important in Japan because during the work day there is a high level of formality and politeness that results in less than direct communication. So, in the evening, it is common to let your hair down and speak a little more directly about work related items.

The result is karaoke, drinking too much, and at a party there will be assorted silliness and games that everyone participates in.

In this picture Ikeda-san and I are recreating a famous Japanese skit. One person sits, covered in a costume where he can't see, behind the other and feeds him noodles. Ikeda-san and I won the prize for "Best Couple". There was much ooh-ing and aah-ing about my ability to use chopsticks without seeing. "It looked like one person was eating" I was told. We also gave stirring speeches, ate, and drank. The food was French (excellent) and the cocktails had a cherry blossom in them.

V=7019

Kaisha no hanami


This is the office hanami party. This year we walked part way around the palace moat and had the party at the Imperial Hotel. Being stylish, I wore a pink cherry blossom tie.

Monday, April 03, 2006

An Ode to the Cherry Blossom


I wrote the following haiku upon seeing cherry blossoms on the way to the airport this morning (this is common behavior for sensitive, artistic people):

momoiro de
sakura no hana wo
kakushimasu

Poetic translation:

The cherry blossoms
are hidden
by the color of pink

Sunday, April 02, 2006

Seriously Nerdy

According to the Geek Test I took on the Newsweek website I sometimes look at for news, I am "Seriously Nerdy". Of the categories ranging from "Last Century" up, this is the highest form of geekdom in the test. According to the statistics, only 5% of the persons taking the test scored this high. This surprised me - wouldn't only nerds take a test that scores how nerdy you are? Here are some of the questions:
  • Have you ever emailed a picture taken on your cell phone to a friend? (Everyone in Japan does this)
  • Do you text message with your phone (everyday)
  • How many computers do you currently have at home? (3 counting my work laptop - that isn't so many)
  • Do you have a home network set up? (Who doesn't?)
  • A joke about binary code (Of course I got it - I could have understood it in hexadecimal)

I didn't do very well on the one about having a TIVO on your television. Do geeks watch television?

Saturday, April 01, 2006

Tokyo Tower at Night

When visitors come, they generally like to sit in the massage chair which has a view out this window. Looking out, you can see Tokyo Tower (that one is pretty obvious) and to the right of it is Mt. Fuji. If you look down, you can see the temple. If I am in the way you can't see anything.

In the winter this window is warm and sunny and there is a nice ledge to sit on. It would be good for a cat, or anyone else inclined to sit on a window sill.

V = 6923

Hanami at Night

People like to go and view the cherry flowers at night too. I tried to get a good picture but this was the best I could do. The trees are getting near peak now. The best guess is that they will peak in the Tokyo area on Tuesday or so. With my standard good timing, I will be in Doha then.

Meanwhile, I suggest going outside with a flashlight or better yet set up a generator and floodlights under a flowering tree. Pop open a beverage of your choice and enjoy some snacks...

CATASTROPHE AVERTED

I bought a new one - Canon IXY 700. They call it the PowerShot SD600 Digital ELPH in the United States. There were some a little fancier but I decided to stick with a small size and the Canon brand that I was already familiar with. The camera is smaller, lighter, the pixels greater (6 Mega) and the LCD viewer bigger than my old one. It also opens up and gets ready to shoot faster. It won't use my old batteries or memory unfortunately. I think it will be OK...

Sunday, March 26, 2006

CATASTROPHE

I dropped my camera and now the lens doesn't seem to be working properly. Maybe I can get it fixed but I would be out of action for a while. I am going to try and check on repair tomorrow. If it is going to take a while, I am buying a new one :-)

Saturday, March 25, 2006

King Eagles Pachinko & Slot Parlor

I was out the other day without my camera and took this picture with my cell phone. It is a Pachinko Parlor and the young men lined up outside are waiting to get in early in the morning. When the door opens, they rush inside to get the "best" machine. According to reliable sources, there are professional pachinko players.

Now, I have never played pachinko. But I have seen it and for the life of me cannot figure how you can make a living playing pachinko. It doesn't even require skill - it is pure luck. But I am assured that somehow you can put the odds in your favor. I think it is something about if the machine sits there long enough without paying, it will eventuall pay off big.

When you win, you get little prizes (because it is illegal to get money). Then you take the prizes around back and trade them for money. Hmmm... The only people making money off pachinko are the owners of the parlor I think. I didn't see any of the young men dressed that nicely or driving expensive cars in the line outside. We can also throw our money at the lottery. Haven't I written about Pachinko before? I know I have written about cherry blossoms. I feel like Yogi Berra: "It's deja vu all over again".

Girls in Uniform

I saw this sign at the train station in Kawasaki. It is labeled to the side:

Kawori Manabe Working Costumes Collection

And the individual uniforms or "costumes" are: Policewoman, Bar Hostess, Car Mechanic, Carpenter, Kindergarten Teacher, Office Worker, Nurse, Gas Station Attendant, Flight Attendant, Maid, Sushi Chef, Hamburger Shop Girl, Elevator Attendant, White Collar Worker, Bartender, Sightseeing Bus Guide, Secretary, and Fishmonger.

And that is all I know about that.

V=6860

Sakura Starting to Bloom

The cherry trees are starting to bloom. This tree is just down the street from my apartment at the bridge that crosses the intersection to the school. It is the first cherry I remember seeing bloom when I first got to Japan. I can't miss it. When I cross the bridge it is just overhead.

Anyway, they look like they are going to bloom in the Tokyo area a little early. This one will probably be in full bloom by mid-week. We planned our office Hanami (Flower Viewing Party) for April 7th and chances are they will pretty much be gone by then. Accordingly, we have adjusted the plan to just having a walk in the park sans sakura no hana and then having a party.

Meanwhile, with my usual penchant for poor timing, I am going to Doha the week of the party and will fly back in on the 6th. So I will probably miss the main bloom this year but at least I'll be at the party.

In Japan, the cherry blossom represents the fragility and shortness of life as well as the beauty. Sometimes you miss out on a few things in life, so, missing the cherry blossom peak is just one of those things. You just have to capitalize on things when you get the chance...

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

The First Day of Spring

Yesterday was the first day of spring and a day off in Japan. Since I am quite fashion conscious, I was looking to see what people would be wearing today on the train.

Sure enough, the fashionable young men had changed to pastel shirts with matching ties. And women were wearing light colored coats and the boots, alas, are starting to disappear.

Yesterday it was warm but by this morning it had turned cold and rainy. But I saw the first cherry buds breaking open in the Tokyo area this morning on my way to train. One tree was even pretty much blooming. The seasons are changing…

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Daibutsu at Kamakura

A plum blooms in front of the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Kamakura. It was cast in 1252 by the sculptors Ono-Goroemon and Tanj-Hisatomo at the request of Miss Idanonotsubone and Priest Joko according to the tribute at the site. In 1498 a tsunami swept away the temple that covered it leaving it in the open air. The buddha weighs about 121 tons and is 13.35 m tall.

Sunday, March 12, 2006

Girls in the Park


This is Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens in Tokyo with the plums in bloom. The plum tree is not as showy as the cherry. There are fewer blossoms and perhaps not as much color depth. But the flower is very fragrant and they are among the first trees to bloom in Japan. A sure sign of spring.

Ume no Hana

A collage showing plum blossoms in Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens, ranging from white through dark pink...

Saturday, March 11, 2006

The Great Buddha in Nara

The Todai-ji in Nara houses the Great Buddha. Cast in 752 by a Korean artist, it is made of bronze and weighs 100s of ton. It is the largest bronze image of the Buddha (see picture behind Yebisu) in the world. The building has been rebuilt several times. The current structure dates from 1709 and is only 2/3rds the size of the original. It is still the largest wooden building in the world.

The Golden Pavillion

The famous Golden Pavillion (Kinkagoji) in Kyoto is a Buddhist temple that was originally the home of a Shogun. Built around 1400, the original was unfortunately destroyed by arson in 1950. This exact replica is covered in gold leaf and topped by a bronze phoenix just like the original.

Look behind Ebisu for some more pictures of Ebisu and Nara...

Friday, March 03, 2006

Firenze

I have just returned from a trip to Firenze, Pisa, Paris, and Doha. I think I have published pictures of the last three before so I thought I'd show you something from Firenze (Florence).

Firenze is a nice small city and of course famous for it's contribution to the Renaissance. It is also famous for wine, food, and fashion - especially leather (think purses Megan). Here are 5 different views of the famous cathedral in Firenze, the Duomo, starting in the upper left and going clockwise.

1 The dome visible over buildings from my hotel window

2 Inside the cathedral looking up at the dome

3 The facade of the cathedral

4 The baptistry with cathedral and dome in back

5 The main entrance

On this trip Ikeda-san bought a $100 bottle of Tuscany wine in a restaurant that I was unable to fully appreciate but thought was very good indeed. Ikeda-san likes wine whereas Hatta-san likes sake. I have decided wine is more likely to give me a headache and I'm leaning towards Hatta-san.

This week my visitors show up and we are going to Kyoto and Nara. There should be more Japanese pictures in the next posting...

V=6703

Saturday, February 18, 2006

Shinkansen

The Japanese name for the bullet train is shinkansen which means literally "new main rail line" but you may see it translated as super express or more popularly as bullet train. The shinkansen system has been in place now for a number of years and there is an extensive network throughout Japan. In the picture you can see a number of different models that have come out over the years.

The largest is the "Max" which is the extra wide double decker in the upper left. The oldest model is the bullet shaped one on the far lower left.

The rail infrastructure here is amazing. The local train and underground in the Tokyo area is clean, safe, very much on time, and at rush hour very crowded. The shinkansen is convenient, comfortable, and fast.

In Japan, there are a lot of train nuts. They want to see, ride, model, photograph, etc. It is the usual bunch of fanatics - young boys and middle aged men. You can buy a special low cost ticket that lets you stand on the platform like I did here and take pictures. Neat...

Monday, February 13, 2006

Haiku for Early Spring

梅一輪
一輪ほどの
あたたかさ

うめいちりん
いちりんほどの
あたたかち

ume ichi rin
ichi rin hodono
atatakachi

A singe plum blossom
I feel the warmth
About the amount of a blossom

I will quote Naoko-san who explains this poem in a way that is as nice as the poem itself:

Plum flowers blossom earlier than Cherry. Some people like plum flowers better than cherry because of the scent.

When I was a student, we could not wait for cherry blossoms and had a party under plum trees. It was too cold of course, and we had to move to an izakaya shortly.

The plums are not blooming yet but we are starting to get some warm days. You can see the buds swelling. Soon...

Sunday, February 12, 2006

About Japanese Green Tea

Here is my tea pot and cups. I got it on sale just like the sake set and at the same place. The pot is hand made and was pretty expensive. The cups are everyday ware but match it well and are pretty I think. Anyway, I like it. Simple and contemporary but definitely Japanese.

So how do you make Japanese tea anyway? And what about the tea ceremony? Forget the tea ceremony. I only know one person my age or younger that knows anything about it. It is esoteric, it is impossible for you and me to sit the proper way that long, and it takes years to learn. If you want to know about it, there are places that do it for tourists (mostly Westerners) .

The word for tea is "cha" which is of Chinese origin. Black Chinese tea is called "kocha" and Japanese green tea is called "ocha". The Japanese like all kinds of tea, including iced tea, lemon tea, jasmine tea, herbal tea, any kind of tea. But the favorite is probably ocha.

Like sake, there are lots of kinds of ocha. I suggest you ask for "sencha" which is the most common type. Sencha can vary widely in quality and cost. Since I don't drink that much, I tend to get the better ones. For me, green tea was something of an acquired taste but I enjoy it now. And of course it has cancer fighting anti-oxidants and is supposed to be good for you. Here is how to make the tea:

Recipe
Bring water to a boil in a special iron kettle over a charcoal fire and cool it to 70 degrees C. by mixing it with an already cooled bowl of water in a special pouring bowl, and using years of experience and the hands to feel, assure the proper temperature. The bowls and cups not being used should be kept on a special lacquered tray, preferably passed down from your ancestors. Or use a computer controlled electric kettle set at the desired temperature like I do and put the pot and cups on the counter.

Pour some water into the tea pot to warm it. Pour that water into the cups to warm them. Now, put the loose tea into the pot. Use about 3 gms of tea per cup. This is more than a teaspoon but less than a tablespoon I think. I use my tea cup to measure the hot water into the pot but the directions the store lady gave me was 60 ml per cup. Steep the tea for 2 minutes.

Notes: A traditional Japanese tea pot has holes or striations in the pot to form a strainer. Some of the newer ones use a stainless steel or fabric screen that fits into the pot. Anyway, you need something to strain it. You can also buy a special container to keep the unused tea in but I haven't done that.

Serving
If you are a good host, you will make each cup the same strength. Pour a little into the first cup, and then quickly move to the next cup, and so on for each cup. Then go back to the first cup and do it again, making several round until you finish with each cup having the same level. You must pour the final drop from the pot! Shake a few drops into each cup, moving from cup to cup, just like you poured it.

The tea will be warm, rather than real hot, and a very light green. For the very best tea, you should actually brew it a little cooler and longer. This reduces the bitterness and astringency. I hope I don't need to tell you not to put sugar in it.

Enjoy...

V=6600

How to drink Sake

Sake is really a word for alcoholic drinks. If you want to be polite, say osake. The Japanese word for the drink made out of rice is nihonshu. If you are good at holding your drink you are "sake ga tsuyoi" - strong at sake. If you are an easy drunk it is "sake ga yowai" - weak drinker. If you are drunk it is "sake no ue de" - sake is on top of.

There are all kinds of nihonshu (Japanese word for sake, remember?). Pay attention now :-). First, nihonshu must be high quality and it needs to be dry. Don't drink from those big plastic bottles they sell for 1,200 yen. Ask for "ginjyo". For dry, ask for "karakuchi no" but this isn't really necessary because ginjyo is aways dry. Now this is important - don't drink good nihonshu hot. Ask for "reishu" which means chilled. If you are a new comer to sake, drink some beer first to condition your palate. The sake won't seem strange after some beer. I skip this step.

To my children: Do not drink and drive. Do not drink too much. You don't see your father doing that do you?

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Stuff

Stuff: I really don't have much stuff here but I bought some more today. I have been looking around for a sake serving set and finally bought this one. I have been looking for a tea set for two years and still haven't bought that but I think I'm getting close now. I like this sake set. It is kind of monchromatic and has nasu (eggplant) on it. A very modern design. It is sitting on my empty kitchen counter.

Anyway, like I said, I don't have that much stuff. You really don't need it do you? I haven't lived with this little stuff since college.

My apartment is furnished so I don't really need a lot. Kathye said it looked like I was "camping out" but I'm camping out in pretty good luxury. Here is a list of what I actually own by room. I am excluding consumable stuff like food and things that aren't meant to last like toothbrushes as well as the furniture and appliances that were provided.

The entry way has 2 pairs of running shoes, 2 pairs of dress shoes, my backpack with camera and electronic dictionary, my coats and umbrella. I also have my lucky maneki neko temple cat there. In the bathroom there is an electric shaver and a little clock.

In the bedroom I have some pictures. In the closet are my clothes hanging on about 5' of hanger space and 6 drawers with all my clothes. I have 2 suitcases.

In the hall is my incense burner that I never use on a tiny little table. In the spare bedroom I have a computer and printer. In the living room I have a TV, stereo, MASSAGE CHAIR, my books on Japan, a few pictures, a nice Chinese tea pot I bought in Kuala Lumpur years ago, and a vase made by my Grandmother.

In the kitchen I have a coffee grinder, expresso machine, some coffee cups, and my new sake set. Oh yeah, almost forgot, some Yebisu beer glasses and two bowls from the Sumo match.

Come to think of it, that is a lot of stuff. Maybe I should get rid of some of it.
V = 6537

Sunday, January 29, 2006

The Kabuki Theater in Tokyo

All the guide books have Kabuki in them. It is esoteric theater that hasn't changed in hundreds of years and is spoken in obscure dialect by an all male cast.

When I first got here it was definitely on my list of things to do. The fact is, I only know one Japanese person who has ever been: Hatta-san's wife. Actually Hatta-san volunteered her to take me, and I am sure she would, but after two years I'm almost feel Japanese enough that it seems silly for me to go. I mean, I don't want to act like a tourist or anything.

I went in my favorite "kaitenzushi" restaurant in Shinbashi today and it was pretty crowded at the counter. There was another "gaijin" (foreigner) there and the waitress, who knows I am a regular, led me away to a better seat at the back so I wouldn't have to sit by him. This pleased me to no end and I made sure to speak Japanese to the waitress as we went by him so there would be no doubt why I was getting special treatment.

Pretty silly, huh? Actually, I don't get mistaken for being Japanese very often :-). Take care and enjoy doing whatever silly thing you are doing...